Do 2 Halves Make a Full?

No, of course they don't, and I'd never be so bold as to try and say they do. But as I "Run the World", persisiting in my quest to complete 2 half marathons a year, I have found some very interesting things about China Running and thought some of you fellow runners might want to get a glimpse into what the sights are like and how it works on the other side of the world. Or doesn't work.

Last December the morning of the Shanghai Marathon dawned clear and cool, with a beautiful view of the Landmark Pearl Tower across the river. 

Sometimes, usually when I least expect it, I get a visual reminder of the fact that this is a Communist country. This line of cadets separated the "Fun Marathon" runners' start corral (5k) from the half and full runners start corral. They stood there at attention for this civilian event for at least 90 minutes.

This is the view in the Half/Full corral, down the Historic Bund, formerly Shanghai's International Settlement, home to numerous International banks and trading houses in the early 1900's. Almost looks like Europe, doesn't it?

Another fortunate shot across the river to the Pudong side at sunrise: the Shanghai World Financial Center, often referred to as "the bottle opener" for it's odd shape (where Mom stood on the glass floor, 400 meters above the street!)

Can some of you more experienced runners explain this sign to me? I cannot come up with a reasonable translation that makes sense....

I was looking forward to an overall flat course but knew that the ramp up to the NanPu Bridge crossing was going to be tough. Up we started at about the 2km mark

and around we wound, 2 full circles,

and across we went, just as the clouds were starting to clear away.

It felt good to go back down the other side. Unfortunately, however, it has become clear the more I run races in China that the Chinese really don't get the whole "water station" idea. I saw a lot of "drink stations" listed on the course map and decided against wearing a water belt but quickly came to realize that the Chinese seem to prefer a tea drink while they exercise, over water, and most of the stations were providing only this thick, brown muck in a bottle that looks to me like dirty pond water. And quite honestly does not smell much better! I was a bit panicked but luckily one of the local hotel chains was handing out bottles of their complimentary water in front of one of their locations on the race route. I was so grateful I nearly grabbed 2! 

As I carried my bottle, we continued on through the Expo 2010 site, getting nice views of the iconic China Pavillion.

In any race in any town you will see people wearing some unexpected "running" gear. Racer 13363 certainly doesn't fit the expected profile, but she was ahead of me until about mile 7 (km 13)!

We had some local cheering squads lining the streets, yelling "Jiāyóu" 加油, Chinese for "Come On!"

Even a local Boy Band!

All in all, it was a beautiful day for a run. I was not very happy with my time but I did stop and take a lot of pictures. If I had not done that perhaps I would have hit my middle range goal. And perhaps not. Either way, the sight of my adoring fans waiting for me at the finish line makes every step worth it!

To kick off 2012 I recently participated in the Suzhou Jinji Lake Half. With this race I pushed the envelope further than ever: how little training can I get away with and still finish? (2012 hasn't quite been the year I was hoping for!) I'd chosen to race in Suzhou, about a 2 hour drive away, because I had heard it was a beautiful course, but in the end there was very little about it that struck me as particularly unique, or picturesque.

A colorful fireworks display marked the start of the race, and the death of my watch battery.

This was my stick-on timing chip.

I saw the most entertaining sight early on: it looked to me as if this beautiful Yellow Lab was running with the girl in the green jacket. I guess she's done a few races in China before too, and knew that she had to make accomodations for her own water! I just hope he's not like Barney who used to love to chew holes in his plastic bottles!

This time I wore my water belt, but I still hadn't learned my lesson because I foolishly only filled 2 of the 4 bottles. This was the scene at the 10k station.

When I got into the scrum, I found this:

I think the cups they serve pills in are bigger than the cups they were using here to serve the water. And the guy had to constantly take a break because the 25 gallon water bottle was too heavy for him to keep pouring to the demand! Not to mention that the little blue punch tab across the top of the jug made the water just splosh out everywhere! It was a disaster. The idea that I was going to run out of water, planted so early in the race, had a hugely negative psychological effect on me. And yes, by the 18km station, they had simply run out altogether.

But along the way we had these little hills that look really mean and ugly from this angle, (Check out the guy on his phone! And look how flat his shoes are! At one point we were running in the bike lane and a guy running in front of me asked a pedestrian on the sidewalk if he could have a drag off the guy's cigarette! The pedestrian gave it to him!)

but much more picturesque from the side.

In the end, for numerous reasons, it was quite simply the worst race I have ever done. I was really surprised by the high percentage of people walking late in the race and gave in to the desire. But I wasn't a DNF. My time was u-g-l-y, but I made it across the line. And there were no water bottles, no bananas, no bagels or chocolate chip cookies to greet me. This was my finisher's packet:

It included indivivually wrapped pieces of beef jerky, about the size of a gumball,

and these packets of some kind of freeze-dried chicken something or other.

Great. I'm already dying of thirst, let's fill my mouth with a bunch of dried, salty junk! But again, I did it, I crossed the line to meet my adoring fans

and we all headed back to Shanghai.

The following weekend I did the local 8k, the only race in the world that I have ever run more than once. And this year, like last year, the water stations were really poorly managed. But I've learned this same lesson enough times that I wore my water belt, with enough water to get me through. It was a very uneventful run but when I passed this sign, I had to stop and take a picture.

All of the errors aside, apparently I've been too well conditioned by Chik-Fil-A because my first thought was "Wait, where are the cows and the chicken joke?"

So the Spring Racing Season in China is officially closed for me, (and perhaps even less inclined to consider doing a Full), the Fall Season won't kick off until well into September and I have been gripped by a horrible torpor. Someone come run with me? Please?

Love, hugs and happy running to you all~

A Chinese Egg for Easter

Those of you who have lived outside of the States may have experienced the fact that in many places eggs are not refrigerated in the grocery store. (Probably another example of how divorced we have become from our food chain's origins but I'm not getting into that now...) I've learned long ago to get over my Western hangups and just get on with it but the other day I found this egg in my carton after I brought it home:

I guess the good news is that if I had a potential prayer of navigating the system I could call the supplier and track it's origin based on it's i.d. stamped on the bottom!

I have not decided what I want to do with it so it is languishing in my fridge. Place your vote now; should I:
open it and then cook it, or cook it and then open it. What would you do? My curiousity is building, but is not yet strong enough for me to actually open it...I'm still too afraid of what I might find!

In the meantime I boiled the rest and a few neighbors came over to help us decorate them.

Happy Easter Everyone!!

Virgin Boy Eggs (You are NEVER going to believe this one!)

Yesterday I picked up a copy of the March 31 edition of the Shanghai Daily and read a second page story so unbelievable that I was convinced it was an April Fools' Day Joke, a day early. Sadly, further reearch has told me that this is for real.

According to the Daily:

If You've A Taste For The Unusual Then Urine For A Treat...

It's the end of a school day in the eastern Chinese city of Dongyang, and eager parents collect their children after a hectic day of primary classes.
But that's just the start of busy times for dozens of egg vendors across the city, deep in coastal Zhejiang Province, who ready themselves to cook up the unusual springtime snack favoured by local residents.
Basins and buckets of boys' urine are collected from primary school toilets. It is the key ingredient in "virgin boy eggs," a local tradition of soaking and cooking eggs in the urine of young boys, preferably below the age of 10.
There is no good explanation for why it has to be boys' urine, just that it has been so for centuries.
The scent of the eggs being cooked in urine is unmistakable as people pass many street vendors in Dongyang who sell it, claiming it has remarkable health properties.
"If you eat this, you will not get heat stroke. These eggs cooked in urine are fragrant," said Ge Yaohua, 51, who owns one of the more popular "virgin boy eggs" stalls.
"They are good for your health. Our family has them for every meal. In Dongyang, every family likes eating them."...
The eggs are not only bought from street stalls. Residents also personally collect boys' urine from nearby schools to cook the delicacy at home.
The popularity of the treat has led the local government to list the 'virgin boy eggs' as an intangible cultural heritage.

Intangible. I can't argue with that assessment. Inedible, however, is the first word that comes to my mind. I'll take my chanes with the heat stroke.
There are so many things I want to share with you all as I catch up after seeming months of computer issues and family energies spent elsewhere, but this one was just screaming at me that it had to come first. And as far as I can tell, it is no April Fool's!

2012, The Year of the Dragon

This can be one of the most boring times of the year for Westerners: the holidays have finished, all of the decorations cleaned up and put away, and now the cold seeps in! As such this is a great time to be in Asia as we are just ramping up to the biggest festival of the year. This year the Chinese New Year, or Lunar New Year, is early. It falls on January 23rd. As described in Wikipedia, "Chinese New Year is the most important of the traditional Chinese holidays. In China, it is known as "Spring Festival," the literal translation of the Chinese name 春節 (Pinyin: Chūn Jié), since the spring season in Chinese calendar starts with lichun, the first solar term in a Chinese calendar year. It marks the end of the winter season, analogous to the Western carnival. The festival begins on the first day of the first month (Chinese: 正月; pinyin: Zhēng Yuè) in the traditional Chinese calendar and ends with Lantern Festival which is on the 15th day. Chinese New Year's Eve, a day where Chinese families gather for their annual reunion dinner, is known as Chú Xī (除夕) or "Eve of the Passing Year." Because the Chinese calendar is lunisolar, the Chinese New Year is often referred to as the "Lunar New Year".

One of my Chinese neighbors recently posted on our neighborhood googlegroup this description of how she and her family will celebrate the holiday and I thought it might be fun for you to hear an insider's story:

"The first date to mark on your calendar is Jan. 22, 2012, it’s the new year eve. This is the most important day of the year for families reunion.  A feast, firework from 8pm to mid-night are traditional ways for locals to welcome the new year. The firework thing are getting a bit out of norm in the recent decade though. We will for sure hear fireworks through the night and the next day. Jan. 23, is the new year day, people go out to visit relatives, and giving out “Red envelop” ( real money in it, can be 100, 200…800, 1000). Only children gets redevelops…( this is the time of the year I wish I could have five kids or more).  You’ve probably heard from your Ayi the tradition that no sweepings and cloth washing on the first day of a new year. Yes, it’s true.  It’s said Good luck may be swept out or washed off on the first day. Besides that, we are supposed to only speak of happy and nice things this day.

The next date to mark is Jan. 26, the fourth day. From late afternoon to the morning of Jan. 27, it’s time to welcome CAI SHEN, God of wealth. Expect lots lots of fireworks.   Locals typically get up early on the fifth day of new year (Jan. 27) because we believe CaiShen likes hard working people, yes, early birds get food.

Third date is Feb. 6. Lantern Festival, the fifteenth day of the new year. If we were living in the  past century or earlier, this day would have been the only day in a year that young women were allowed to go out at night. It was the only night the whole night was bright, with thousands and thousands lanterns.   It’s a tradition for locals to solve riddles and win prices that day, and also eat Tang Yuan/ Yuan Xiao, i.e., round dumplings made with sticky rice and sweat fillings. As you probably have notices, the round shape a lot times relates to “completeness” and “family reunion” in China.

To share with you my plan for the Chinese new year holiday:

first, do a thorough clean of my house before Jan. 22…when I still have Ayi to help.

Order three pieces of  firework for the above mentioned three occasions.

Start to get the list of food for the new year eve and we will eat at home. (Chinese restaurants won’t have good chefs those days, all gone home).

Tour around the Lantern street in Yu Garden the weekend before Feb. 6. Buy the most expensive round dumplings (RMB20/pack)  from Carrefour and eat (after boil) on Feb.6…

Oh, one more thing…to get a list of families who only have one child for my new year visit…haha… I have two kids."

Our neighborhood is planning a fireworks party Sunday night the 22nd, and I'm very excited about it! In the meantime everyone is decorating and I thought I would share with you some of what we've seen around the City.
This is the 'Seasonal Aisle" as it would be called in the stores in the States, of our local Supermarket. The red, featuring so prominently in nearly all Chinese rituals and decorations, symbolizes good fortune and joy while the gold symbolizes good luck.

 

This is one of my favorite decorations at a nearby mall, featuring the traditional Chinese Cheongsam dress and the dragon motif for 2012

I recently purchased this dragon decoration for my own front door and it will remain up throughout this lunar year.

I also bought some lanterns to hang out front and got such a laugh when I took a good look at the packaging:

Santa and his reindeer: really? But with a little help from Xiu, our ayi, we got them put together properly and have hung them on the front gate.

If you were born in the years '00, '88, '76, '64, '52, '40, '28, or the January/February of the following year, you may be a dragon in the Chinese Zodiac. As per Wikipedia, dragons are described as Magnanimous, stately, vigorous, strong, self-assured, proud, noble, direct, dignified, eccentric, intellectual, fiery, passionate, decisive, pioneering, artistic, generous, loyal. Can be tactless, arrogant, imperious, tyrannical, demanding, intolerant, dogmatic, violent, impetuous, brash. Do you Dragons recognize yourselves in there anywhere?

So mark your calendars: you are officially absolved of all cleaning duties on Monday the 23rd. I'm still trying to figure out if that includes dishes? Keep an eye out on the 26th and 27th for Cáishén. I hope he finds you all this year, that you recognize him and welcome him in! And perhaps there is a Lantern Festival in your neighborhood. If so I hope you get a chance to check it out. For the second time in a month, I wish you all a very Happy New Year: Xīnnián kuàilè! (新年快乐). But for the first time I wish you Good Luck in the Year of the Dragon: Lóng nián jíxiáng! (龙年吉祥). And last but not least, I wish you great prosperity: Gōngxǐ fācái! (恭喜发财). (I can proudly say that, while I have no recognition of the Mandarin characters, my vocabulary has progressed that I have a limited command of the pinyin words within those 3 wishes! Depending on the day and how much coffee I have or have not had!)

Our love and best to you all~

YuYuan and the Old Shanghai TeaHouse

One of the things my Mom wanted to do during her visit here was, naturally, to visit a teahouse. When Heinz's Mom was here she made the same request and following an afternoon visit to YuYuan (Yu Gardens) we mistakenly took her to the HuXinTing (Mid-Lake Pavillion) Teahouse, the famous one in the middle of the pond, outside the garden, accessed across the zig-zag bridge.

It certainly is scenic, and historic, and we enjoyed watching the crowd in the square below from our view at a window seat on the second floor but while once regal, (having been visited by Bill Clinton and Queen Elizabeth ll) sadly over the years it has become little more than a tourist trap and the tea service consisted of a tiny pot of tea, a few bland cookies of indistinguishble flavor and a few sweets, again of indistinguishable flavor or origin, for a ridiculous price. And the waiter was surly. The kids and I had gotten cones of Dairy Queen softserve (yes, there is a Dairy Queen in the YuYuan Bazaar and there is always a line, even in winter!) for about 7RMB a piece -about $1.06 USD, and then caught up with Heinz and his Mom at the Teahouse, while Heinz ordered a bowl of icecream (flavor choices were vanilla or red bean) at the Teahouse for about 58 RMB. Yes, that is about 8$ USD. For ice cream. I walked away from the experience feeling that we should have known better, and vowing never to take a guest there again. Sorry Stephanie!
Fast forward 6 weeks and I got smart and consulted Lonely Planet: Shanghai. It recommends The Old Shanghai TeaHouse, described as a "wonderfully decrepit 2nd-floor teahouse, overlooking the Old Street (Fangbang Rd). It's a shrine to the 1930's, with period typewriters, sewing machines, electric fans and even an ancient fridge." So we took the bait.

And could not have been more pleased with our experience. It's a delightfully intimate upstairs room with one row of tables along the windows while the backwall is lined with the treasures listed above.

The tea selection was extensive and the snacks menu had everything we needed. We ordered steamed dumplings and Shepherd's Purse Wonton Soup for the table. They were delicious!

Mom ordered Sultry Jasmine tea. It starts out as the dried flower, all curled up, looking more like something made of fabric or yarn than a tea starter!

She was instructed to let it steep for at least 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, Heinz ordered one of the Kung Fu Teas. (And yes, we are incapabled of saying that without doing some sort of slash-slash! hand motions!)

The actual pouring ritual was quite elaborate: pour the hot water onto the leaves in the one tiny (covered) pot, strain that water out into another tiny pot (see the strainer upside down on the tray), pour that first serving off into a tiny little cup, barely bigger than a thimble. That gets turned upside down into your actual drinking cup to sit for a minute, and finally that first pour is dumped into the tray beneath. From what we could gather, the first pour was considered too strong to drink, and the tiny thimble-like cup merely served to engage the sense of smell as the waitress very eagerly instructed Heinz that he was to smell it after it was emptied. Then the entire process was done a second time, minus the part with the tiny thimble-like cup, and Heinz was instructed to drink up.

But our waitress was delightful, and both Mom and Heinz enjoyed their teas. (I have never been a tea drinker so I stuck to my chocoholic nature and had Cocoa.) We sat and enjoyed our view of the street and the shops below

and Mom really got a kick out of the old radio, very similar to the one she and Aunt Mel used to listen to, laying on their living room floor as kids!

By the time we finished, Mom's jasmine had fully opened.

So if you are looking for an enjoyable TeaHouse experience either with your guests or for yourself, avoid the trap at the center of the lake. Leave the Bazaar (and the Skull Soupery and Cornish Hen Tepee-ery) and go down the street to The Old Shanghai TeaHouse. You will be so glad you did! But before you leave the Bazaar, we definitely recommend a stroll through the Gardens. It had turned into a nice day, a bit cold but sunny, so we decided that a visit was in order. Mom waits at the entrance as we buy the tickets.

One meaning of Yù is Jade, and I have heard the YuYuan referred to as the Jade Garden (Yuan=Garden) but I actually think that while the pinyin is the same, the character of the name is actually diferent than the Mandarin character for Jade. Another source lists Yu as meaning "peace and health", and cites this as the origin for the name based on Pan Yunduan's building the gardens for his father's pleasure. Unfortunately it is very difficult for me to reverse-check a Chinese character, so in the meantime I offer this from Wikipedia:

The garden, located in the center of the Old City, was first established in 1559 as a private garden created by Pan Yunduan, who spent almost 20 years building a garden to please his father Pan En, a high-ranking official in the Ming Dynasty, during his father's old age. Over the years, the gardens fell into disrepair until about 1760 when bought by merchants, before suffering extensive damage in the 19th century. In 1842, during the Opium Wars, the British army occupied the Town God Temple for five days. During the Taiping Rebellion the gardens were occupied by imperial troops, and damaged again by the Japanese in 1942. They were repaired by the Shanghai government from 1956–1961, opened to the public in 1961, and declared a national monument in 1982.

Thankfully, as it was a weekday, it was not terribly crowded. 

(Unfortunately I did miss noting which building this is above- sorry Mom!) The old traditional Dragon walls; seen around the city, I think this is the only one with an actual dragon head carving. This one could benefit from a closer look; click on the photo to see it larger.

Chinese dragons are legendary creatures in Chinese mythology and folklore...In contrast to European dragons, which are considered evil, Chinese dragons traditionally symbolize potent and auspicious powers, particularly control over water, rainfall, hurricane, and floods. The dragon is also a symbol of power, strength, and good luck. (Wikipedia). The Year of the Dragon is soon upon us! More on that to follow!

The quintessential Chinese doorway: This round doorway is often referred to a moongate because of its shape. It represents the full moon, or happiness....The threshold, typically raised 3-5 inches to help control rainwater, must be stepped over upon passing through this doorway. This brings that act of entry into the conscious thoughts of the person entering. It impresses upon the visitor an awareness of the privelege of their entry into the property (Wikipedia). I wish I knew what the characters overhead say.

And no Chinese Garden is complete without willow trees and goldfish! So Beautiful!

We do hope you've enjoyed your visit. Hopefully next time we can show you around for real!

Our love to you all~