Monday, May 26, 2014

Sukothai: a Visit to the Ruins

Back in April, the kids had 3 weeks off school for the Easter/Spring/New Year (Songkran) break. Heinz was away for much of it but while he was home we decided to get in the car and take a drive to spend a few days exploring more of the surrounding Thai sights. One location that has been tops on our list to visit is Sukothai, a UNESCO/World Heritage-listed Historical Park.

It's about a 4-hour drive to the south east of Chiang Mai so we loaded up the car and headed out. About an hour into the journey we spotted this golden Buddha on a hill.

 Smile, Daddy!
We arrived in Sukothai late in the afternoon and checked in to the hotel, planning to get an early start at the historical park the following day. The next morning we arrived early and rented bikes for everyone, the recommended method for exploring the site. 
According to the Lonely Planet site, The Sukothai Kingdom flourished from the mid 13th Century to the late 14th. This period is often considered the "golden age" of Thai civilization: the religious art and architecture of the era are considered to be the most classic of Thai styles. The remains of the kingdom, today known as the meuang gow or "Old City" which is still surrounded by the remains of its ancient walls and moats, include 45 sq. km. of partially rebuilt ruins, some of the most visited ancient sites in Thailand. 

We started off with viewing Wat Mahathat, the main temple complex on site and, according to Thailandsworld.com, one of the most important Buddhist temples in Thailand.
This really cool aerial view of Wat Mahathat is borrowed from the UNESCO website.
"Wat Mahathat" translates as "the temple of the great relic" as the relics of the Buddha were kept here (Sukothai.Thaiwebsites.com). The complex includes the ruins of the assembly and ordination halls, both with seated Buddhas, and numerous chedis and stupas which are mound-like or hemispherical structures containing Buddhist relics, typically the ashes of the Buddhist monks, used by Buddhists as places of meditation.

Here is a closer view of one of the mandapas, a square, pillared, outdoor hall or pavillion for public rituals, with the standing Buddha. Buddha statues are always found in one of four poses: sitting, standing, walking or reclining. 
I had to giggle to myself when I came across this bride and groom being photographed. It made me feel as if I were back in China, where it is impossible to visit a park without seeing a couple being photographed in wedding dress!
Offerings left on a nearby altar
Beautiful landscapes in all directions
The Munchkins lead the way off road!

Further along within the old city we visited the ruins of the Wat Sri Savaya, noted for its three large Khmer-style prangs.
According to renown-travel.com, the temple, constructed by the Khmer as a Hindu sanctuary to Shiva, is believed to be the oldest temple in Sukothai, built before the founding of the Sukothai Kingdom.
(The only thing missing is Indiana Jones and the bats!)
I hope we haven't lost merit for this but some pictures are just begging to be taken.
 Always such interesting trees in the tropics.
Time to refuel some sweaty children with a nice cold drink!
From the UNESCO website: "In addition to being the place of pioneering achievements in architecture and art, language and writing, (The unique Thai alphabet invented at Sukothai remains in use today), and religion and law, the historic towns of the Sukothai Kingdom were home to accomplished innovators in hydraulic engineering. They modified the landscape of the kingdom in such a way that water was dammed; reservoirs, ponds and canals were constructed; flooding controlled and water was brought to serve a variety of agricultural, economic and ritual functions as well as to provide the towns' inhabitants with water for their daily lives and protection in the form of the city's moats...the kings of Thailand have been acknowledged for their ability to control the kingdom's water." 
We continued on to the City walls and beyond.
The walls were constructed in three layers and the moats in between still exist even where the walls have disappeared.
There are also many temple ruins beyond the city walls, in the surrounding countryside.
There is often a view to the beautiful mountains beyond, in Thailand.
After a day of riding, sightseeing and sweating, a dip in the hotel pool was a welcome refresher! It had a very interesting glass wall at the one end.
Vivi insisted on ice cream after dinner, even though the air conditioning had her hiding inside her shirt, she was so cold!

The next day we loaded up the car again and headed back towards home, hoping to see a few more sights along the way. We looked for a new hotel but decided against this one.
We found one near to our next sightseeing destination: Bhumibol Dam, a hydro-electric dam and reservoir named for the current King of Thailand.

Many long boats are available for trips around the reservoir to visit the surrounding mountains and islands, all part of the Mae Ping National Park, known locally for its hiking and camping opportunities.
We landed on this nearby island, intending to visit the Wats (temples) at the top but a poorly maintained, very steep trail, inappropriate footwear, scarce to nonexistent handrails and impending rain warned us off. 
We at least gave it a try, though!
The rain caught us on the way back but the views of the surrounding mountains were dramatic in the storm. 
Sometimes the most interesting stops you make are the unplanned ones you find along the way. When we saw the signs for the Hug You Sheep Farm while driving home, we had to stop and check it out!
Just following directions: hugging the sheep!
And feeding them too.
And taking pictures of the people taking pictures with the kids.
More ice cream!
Who's that handsome guy in the sunglasses? Is that someone famous?
The restaurant in the back had swings at the tables instead of benches. Very fun! (Although not very functional!) 
So many places still to visit and so much fun to be had. What's next on your list?