Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Kuala Gandah - The Elephant Sanctuary

The more I learn about Malaysia, the more it continues to surprise me. It is such a small country and KL is so densely populated that I tend to think the whole country is that way. In fact much of the country is still virgin jungle: rainforest. The Indo-Malayan rainforests are the oldest in the world, making those in Africa and South America seem adolescent in comparison. Historically elephants were found in large numbers throughout the densely forested Malay Peninsula. However over the past 100 years the forests have steadily given way to agriculture for both food and cash crops, mostly palm plantations. Initially forest clearance paid no heed to the need for elephant corridors to allow for trans migration and this gave rise, as expected, to a considerable human-elephant conflict. With approx. 1300-1400 wild elephants estimated to live within peninsular Malaysia, the Malay authorities’ response was to set up the Elephant Management Unit in 1974 under the authority of the Department of Wildlife and National Parks. This unit has established the world renowned Kuala Gandah Elephant Conservation Centre. The unit has become highly specialized in elephant translocation in response to human elephant conflict, moving elephants to the eastern Malaysian states of Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang where there is still a large amount of forest, some of which is protected as part of the vast Taman Negara National Park.


About 90 minutes drive from KL, the Taman Negara is spread out over 4,343 sq. km. (nearly 1700 sq. miles) of rainforest. Last week we had the awesome opportunity to spend a day in a portion of the reserve, at the Kuala Gandah sanctuary and meet the elephants.

The experience begins with a video documentary highlighting the plight of the elephants in Malaysia and the efforts of the Elephant Relocation team. While waiting for the day’s activities to start, we chatted with one of the workers who explained to us that they have trained a number of the elephants to assist with the relocation by acting basically as ambassadors for the relocation team. When a wild elephant is captured for relocation, the trained (“job” elephants, as they are called at the sanctuary) are brought in to help calm the confused animal in preparation for its travel. They work in pairs and the video footage of the team moving to stand on either side of the frightened evacuee, using their trunks to stroke and calm the poor thing is both amazing and heartbreaking. (Those of you who know me know it brought tears to my eyes.)

The elephants that actually reside at the sanctuary are mostly orphans. (The team does try to relocate families, or pods, as much as possible.) Some of them have very sad stories, as you can imagine: one is missing a foot due to a conflict with humans, one is a survivor of a tiger attack, but they seem to be well cared for and well-loved by the staff. While on the grounds we had the opportunity to feed the elphants:
grass to the smallest,

(click this link to see video of fearless Conrad feeding this cutie: http://www.shutterfly.com/video/myVideos.sfly?fid=3235dd89c50098c0cf4ab00f16ca9e1e)


peanuts to some of the medium sized ones,


and fruit to the biggest ones
(Conrad was trying to feed him the watermelon seeds too!)
I can't remember this one's name but she is 69 years old; elephants can live to be 80 years old
Conrad and Mommy went for a ride
I don't remember this little cutie's story but she was definitely the youngest at the sanctuary
The day ended with a swim in the river with the residents
(click this link for a video of this little adventure: http://www.shutterfly.com/video/myVideos.sfly?fid=f353044cf18ce42e5b2f2841c4d4a52e)

There is no entry fee to visit the sanctuary but a donation is requested. Per their website: "Although the Sanctuary receives funding from the Malaysian government via the Department of Wildlife & National Parks or DWNP, additional fundings from externally generated sources are always welcomed with open........trunks?" You can imagine the government funding doesn't cover all of their needs so should any of you feel inclined to help them out you can access them through the website : www.myelephants.org/donation.html


Wednesday, February 17, 2010

More Chinese (Lunar) New Year fun

We were in the mall on Chinese New Year's Day (2/14) and happened to catch this performance (see link to video, below). Each lion was a team of 2: one person was the head and front legs, the other was the body and hind legs. Their acrobatics on these 10 foot poles was really quite amazing, the video really doesn't do it justice, but hopefully it will be fun for you to watch anyway. Some of you have already seen this video on Facebook but for those of you for whom it's new, enjoy!

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0IZtXDVq0ZMX4A

The retail celebration of Lunar New Year has continued to entertain me. There are many vendors that seem to set up in the shopping centers specifically to sell traditional New Year's fare. It always makes me think of Hickory Farms because they seem to be the ones that most recognizably only appear in the malls at Christmas but instead of the petit fors and summer sausage, the Malaysian kiosks have a lot of things I don't recognize: dried fruits and jerkies,  crispy potato and rice treats - always in clear plastic jars with red tops as red is the color of luck: it symbolizes fire which drives away bad luck; and some that I do: pineapple tarts that we sampled in Melacca and they were quite yummy, and Chinese Love letter cookies: sweet butter-sugar cookies. Doubly yummy!
Pineapple tarts
Chinese Love Letter cookies, sometimes folded, sometimes rolled


These items were found in almost every vendor's set up but there was another item that I saw everywhere and it really made me laugh: the ever popular, traditional Chinese Famous Amos chocloate chip cookies! It seemed to always be the biggest display. Or maybe it just stuck out more to me because, other than the Mandarin oranges (of course!) it was the only item not packaged in clear plastic with a red top!
The Lunar New Year usually falls on the second new moon after the winter solstice and the celebration lasts for 2 weeks. I was unable to find an explanation for the 2 week duration but feel free to celebrate until the end of February, if you wish. There are so many traditions and practices associated with it that it makes my head spin and I can't even begin to share them with you: foods you are supposed to eat or not eat, things you are supposed to say or not say, gifts you are supposed to give or not give, but one thing I am sad to say I did not learn about in time: on Lunar New Year's Day you are not to clean/sweep the house as it is believed that you risk sweeping away the luck that has accumulated, apparently on your floors and tv set? I never thought of dustbunnies and dried blueberry yogurt as lucky, and I kicked Heinz and the kids out of the house Sunday morning so that I could scrub my floors in peace! If only I had known, I could have put my feet up and ignored it all for one more day!
Gong Xi Fa Cai, y'all!

Friday, February 5, 2010

Dinner is served...maybe

We have a rice cooker. It came with the place; this is Asia after all. People I know who have rice cookers swear by them but it is one gadget I have not felt a burning need to have. Quick cook rice has never let me down so far but since we have the cooker, I thought I would give it a try. Besides, I have yet to find boxed rice in the stores. They sell 40 pound bags of rice, as big as my 3 year old, but no quick cook in boxes. So I pull the box out of the cupboard to find that the cooker is still brand new, never been taken out of the packaging. I guess the previous tenants didn't cook much either (they were Asian, we found a cd of pictures from a trip they took to Cambodia. Great temples, made me want to visit. Plus we still get his mail indicating that he owes the cable company a lot of money....) Anyway, I pull out the box and am heartened to see that it is covered in English. Until I see the first amenity listed: "1.2mm Thickness inner pot, prolong the economy's natural life." In college we had this professor who was from South Africa. Brilliant man. His lectures were naturally in English but they were so misearble to sit through because I could never understand a word the man said. This is starting to feel like that. So the next amenity listed on the box is: "Glass top cover, the more pressure, the more rice savory."  Chuckling to myself now I open the box and take out the instruction manual to find the directive "Be sure to keep the space between the kettle and the heater plate clean from wet, dust (etc.), to avoid the unit work mulfunction or from damaged." Would it really have been so hard to have someone proofread this thing before you put it on the shelves? Some of the English we find here is so poor, both the grammar and the spelling. It makes me think of the probability of finding the minimum one spelling/grammar mistake on the Chinese take-out menus left on door handles and windshields in the states. Surely I'm not the only one who plays that game? But the other day I saw an ad for a local pre-school offering "Let us teach your childs English". Umm, no thanks, I'll pass. And it leaves me to wonder: are those the people who understand the box and the instruction manual for my rice cooker?

So we went grocery shopping Tuesday night and rice for the cooker was on my list. I did find where they have the small bags (merchandising in Malaysian stores would probably remain a mystery to me even if we lived here for 6 years, not just 6 months) but the new challenge became to find one that had any English on it at all. And I know you're probably thinking "Jack, it's rice, how complicated can it be? Do you really need a bag in English?" But remember I've never made rice in a cooker before, how much rice to how much water? Bottom line, I couldn't find a bag in English that told me so good old Wikipedia hooked me up. I clean the cooker, I wash the rice, which Wikipedia recommended I do and, after all, this is a foreign country (does that make me weird?) put it all in the cooker, and realize that I have not got a single electrical outlet on the kitchen counter. Not one. Maybe this is why the previous tenants never used the damn thing either. Behind the refrigerator there are 2 outlets. So the cooker is plugged in and sitting on top of the fridge because the cord would not reach to put it on the nearest counter.  It's turned on, the red light is glowing and if the outcome is anything other than uneventful, I will let you know.  Maybe I'll love it so much that I will have to get one for the house when we get back to the states.
Maybe not.
And regarding electrical outlets, we do not have one, not a single one, in any of the bathrooms. Can't use a shaver, can't use a blowdryer. Think of how many outlets you have in the room you are in right now. I think the American standard is 1 every 4 feet? We have one per wall. I guess that's one way to reduce consumption!

Malaysian fun fact #15: The Malaysian numbers superstition, like the American aversion to the number 13, involves the number 4. Apparently the word for the number 4 sounds too much like the word for death, so they avoid using it whenever possible. In our building, above the 13th floor comes floor 13A. On each floor there are 8 units: 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5, 6, etc. Heinz and I had to laugh because Conrad has taken a liking to the number 4 for some reason, and the other night at the Chinese wedding dinner we attended he kept pointing it out to us in one of the books we had brought to keep him occupied. We were horrified that somehow we were going to be considered rude guests or jinx the bride and groom!
Malaysian fun fact #16: The Canadian finish all of their sentences with "eh?"
The Malaysians finish all of their sentences with "la", as in "I have to finish this post, la". It takes a little while to get used to it but I find I hardly even notice it anymore!

Well, naptime is over and I have to go check the rice. Wish me luck!

Monday, February 1, 2010

Punishing Adultery, Malaysian style

Malaysian court imposes fine of farm animals

The Malaysia Sun
Monday 1st February, 2010

The Malaysian press has reported an adulterous couple were fined four buffaloes and a pig after being found guilty of an extra-marital affair. The report said the pair were convicted by the Native Court in Penampang, Borneo, after the man's wife lodged a complaint last year. The court heard from the man's wife who claimed she found the couple only partially dressed in sarongs and shorts. The court rejected a claim from the adulterous couple that they were simply friends, and imposed the animal fine, worth around US$1,900.

The pair were convicted under customary local laws.